Days two and three: From Zambia through Botswana into Namibia

We had planned to enter Namibia from Zambia at the Sesheke / Katima Mulilo border post, but heard that the road to Sesheke was atrocious. It seemed a better option to cross the Zambezi at Kazungula and to travel via a part of Botswana, even though it meant an extra border crossing. In the event, the Kazungula border crossing was relatively painless, the only annoyance being the crowd of people who want to ‘assist’ with everything. We managed without any of their ‘assistance’ and were even waved quickly onto a ferry without paying anyone to ensure an early embarkation. Halfway across the river we were however informed that we were now on the Botswana ferry when we should in fact have boarded the Zambian one, that we’d paid for. Since both ferries are just shuttling between Zambia and Botswana, the reason for the distinction was not entirely clear to me. Anyway, we alighted into Botswana and passed through the border with a minimum of fuss. What a pleasure that there are no ‘assistants’ hanging around here!

From Kasane we drove through the top part of the Chobe Reserve, up to the next border post (into Namibia) at Ngoma. Another easy and quick crossing. From Ngoma the road took us past Katima Mulilo and Kongola, to the relatively remote Mukolo Camp operated by Hennie and Veronica. The camp is located on a riverbank in the Mayuni Conservancy and while we did not see many animals there, the location was stunning and we saw a fantastic sunset.

We had a very pleasant evening with Hennie, Veronica and their other guests, and a comfortable stay in the chalet. Since the area is not fenced, I must admit that we walked quite carefully, with torches, back from the bar area to our chalet!

The next morning, after breakfast, we left again, travelling through Kongola and the Kwando Core Area of the Caprivi Strip, towards Divundu. Here we visited the pleasant and shady area of the rather grandly named Popa Falls, essentially just a collection of rapids in the Cubango River. After a browse through the new-looking resort there, and a quick lunch from our cooler box, we continued towards Rundu. This is a dusty, sprawling and rather unattractive town where we stayed overnight in Niilo’s Guesthouse. This was rather minimal, and we did have some issues with water supply, which were later resolved. But at least the bed was good and clean.